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I'm back in Whitehorse safe and sound! July 14th, 2009 Greetings from Whitehorse, Yukon! I'm back safe and sound after an incredible 10 days rafting the famed Tatshenshini and Alsek Rivers. Our 213km journey took us through the pristine wilderness areas of the lower Yukon, the Tatshenshini-Alsek Wilderness Provincial Park of British Columbia and Glacier Bay National Park in Alaska. Every day brought with it spectacular scenery, adventure and promise of spotting grizzly bears, wolves, mountain goats, moose and bald eagles. My fellow paddlers included a retired couple from the coastal islands of British Columbia, a bee-keeper and his teen-aged son from the Prairies and another fella from Vancouver. Our two young guides from Tatshenshini Expediting in Whitehorse took great care of us by navigating our rafts through the rapids and river systems as well as preparing delicious meals ranging from Eggs Benedict to turkey served with mashed potatoes and stuffing. A variety of beers, wines and spirits complimented our meals. Desserts were equally tasty - the freshly baked cakes prepared in a Dutch Oven over the campfire were highly appreciated. Hard to believe that we ate so well given our remote location deep in the heart of the St Elias Mountains. We camped in parking lots, on gravel shores and glacial silt as well as in beds of dwarf fireweed. Our evening chats around the campfire focused on our reflections of the days journey, the challenges that lay ahead and endless conversations about our respective travel adventures around the globe. Our river expedition took us down some nail biting rapids with names such as Thread the Needle, Black Bear Rapid and Cat in the Washing Machine. At times the churning waters reminded me of being at sea while at other times we enjoyed the tranquility and beauty of rafting amongst icebergs of every shape and size imaginable. We paddled through some stunning scenery of majestic glacial-capped mountain peaks, river valleys, braided streams and deep canyons. Our group also traversed glaciers, scrambled up steep mountainsides littered with scree, bushwhacked through thick cottonwood forests and strolled on open alpine meadows. The trip was a journey of extremes from every aspect imaginable. We enjoyed a few days of warm temperatures when the mercury soared to the mid-twenties while other days we were bundled up in our warmest attire to protect ourselves from the chilled winds blowing in from the glacial ice. From spying on hummingbirds to mountain goats, photographing everything from glacial ice to lynx prints, sneaking in an afternoon nap amongst the alpine meadow flowers or enjoying lunch in a lake jam-packed with thousands of sculpted turquoise-blue icebergs, we experienced it all on the Tat. Little wonder why this river system has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site and classified as one of Canada's great Heritage Rivers. I'm in dire need of a hot shower and am anxious to wash away ten days worth of accumulated grime and glacial flour (silt) from my toothbrush, camera gear, sleeping bag and from behind my ears. Give me a few days to catch up on my laundry, a chance to chill and recoup before I resume my postings. Regular postings (updates) will appear here over the coming weeks. Enough procrastinating, it's high time to open my river bag of damp clothing and do some heavy duty laundry. See you again shortly! Cheers, Claus |
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