Photographing the Northern Lights

W inter is one of my favorite times of the year to enjoy and photograph the northern lights in Canada's Arctic. Rarely does a clear night go by that I don't see the lights dance across our arctic skies. I've tried on numerous occasions to capture the lights on film and on pixel. Believe it or not, it's not that difficult. All that is required is some basic research, a bit of advance planning, learning how to set up the camera properly and plenty of patience, good luck and clear skies.

The northern lights are commonly referred to as the aurora borealis (literally meaning 'northern dawn'). The aurora light up the sky when charged particles from the sun collide with the earth's magnetic field near the poles. At the poles, these charged particles react with various atmospheric gases to produce the auroral glow that can be seen in both the southern and northern hemispheres.

Scientists have discovered that the magnitude of the auroral displays is directly determined by the sun. The peak of activity generally occurs every 8 to 11 years when the intensity and frequency of solar storms greatly increase. This year's solar activity is expected to be minimal. Despite this, however, there are still plenty of opportunities for spotting the northern lights in the coming days, weeks and months. The occasional solar storm has already triggered some impressive displays and scientists believe more are on the way.

The first step in photographing the northern lights is to find out when they may happen. Thankfully, in this modern age of the internet, there are plenty of web-based resources that aid in predicting when and where the northern lights will occur. My favorites include:

Finding a good place from where to shoot the aurora is the next step. Ideally, this location should have a 360-degree view of the evening sky and be free of light pollution. If at all possible check out these areas in advance. Try to find a location with an interesting foreground - a snow-capped mountain, a frozen lake, the silhouettes of trees, a cabin by the lake or even an igloo on the land will greatly enhance your final image.

Generally speaking, any decent film or digital camera with a lens that can be held open for any length of time is capable of photographing the aurora. In the past I have used a Nikon F-4 film camera but two winters ago I switched to the digital world. I prefer the digital camera as it gives me the opportunity to learn along the way without the needless waste and expense of film. Today, I shoot all of my images with a Nikon D300 and D700 along with several wide-angle lenses and a sturdy tripod.

The basic setup for both types of cameras is essentially the same. Turn OFF all automatic functions and set the camera to MANUAL MODE and the shutter speed to BULB. I usually use a mid range ISO setting of 400 (the D700 handles higher ISO up to 3200 with minimal noise). Fuji Provia 400 slide film produces dramatic images. If using a digital camera turn the long exposure noise reduction ON and set the white balance to DAYLIGHT. Don't forget to pack spare batteries and memory cards (or film). Attach a cable release and place the camera on a sturdy tripod.

Wide angle lenses produce the most dramatic images. My choice lenses include a 12-24mm f/4 DX, 17-55 f/2.8 DX and 24-70mm f/2.8 FX. Any lens slower than f/2.8 (larger f-stop number) usually requires a longer exposure that can result in unwanted star trails. Set the lens and camera to manual focus and use the lens' widest aperture - the smallest f-stop. Make sure to remove any filters as they can create unwanted rings on your image. Apparently, this is caused by the reflection of light between the lens and filter.

Exposure times vary greatly depending on the lens used, the ISO setting and the brightness of the aurora. In most situations I shoot many frames at different exposures varying between 10 to 25 seconds (6 seconds at ISO 3200 with the D700), longer if a slower lens is used. Don't be afraid to experiment with different settings and exposures and keep notes on those settings that produce the best results. Keep in mind that the unexposed film or camera sensor picks up even the faintest lights invisible to the naked eye.

There are a few other pointers to keep in mind when shooting during a cold evening. Keep a spare set of batteries inside your coat pocket (the cold temperatures suck the battery juices quickly). Most importantly, when you are returning home place your camera and lens inside a sealed plastic bag (I use a plain garbage bag) before you step inside the warm house. If you don't do this then you camera, sensor and lens will pick up condensation that could damage your camera, the sensor and lens. Leave the bag inside the house for several hours until the camera slowly warms up to room temperature. I usually remove the memory card before putting the camera and lens in the bag - this way I can download my images while the camera is warming up.

Photographing the northern lights is an enjoyable pastime. With plenty of planning, practice, patience and a willingness to experiment it is relatively easy to produce quality shots. Keep an eye on the space weather forecasts and be ready to go out at a moment's notice (yes, this means keeping your camera bag fully stocked and near at hand). Some of the most impressive displays happen with little or no advance warning. Good luck and enjoy!

Check out some of my images of the northern lights taken from Pangnirtung, a small Inuit community located on Baffin Island. Click here to visit Dancing Lights gallery.

ON SALE: Limited edition print of the dancing lights over the Pangnirtung Fjord. Click on PRINTS above for more details.

Tradewinds Photography